January 30, 2009


hanging loose in the Big Nothing

“Against your will you are forced to experience the euphoric horror of floating in emptiness, your moorings cut for good. It is an emotion which has slowly corroded all your ties, but is also a constant vertigo you will never get used to.

This is why one day you have to come back. Because now you no longer belong anywhere. Not to any address, house, or telephone number in any city. Because once you have been out here, hanging loose in the Big Nothing, you will never be able to fill your lungs with enough air.

Africa has taken you in and has broken you away from what you were before.

This is why you will keep wanting to get away but will always have to return.”

- Francesca Marciano, writer

strine

I didn’t anticipate learning to speak “strine” when I came to Africa.

Strine is Australian lingo. It’s the blending and speeding up of words – long words, several words – into shorter phrases. I don’t know how my leader – Peter – manages to crunch 10 syllables into 2, but somehow he does. For example,

Did you have a good weekend? In strine becomes
Djuvgdwe-end? (or something like this)

I stare blankly a lot. I say “What?” a lot. I raise my eyebrows a lot.

I probably understand three-quarters of all that Peter says. So we all laugh a lot, mostly at me, which makes for good bonding. And I’ve found that my Australian leaders, Peter and Kim, are very patient with me, displaying a great a sense of humor and grace.

This is a picture of my great, strine-speaking leaders. (smiles)

tp

Grocery shopping expeditions. All of the packaging continues to look foreign to me. So unless I really take some time reading and comparing items, I can easily grab the wrong thing. The other day, for example, I needed toilet paper. What did I grab? Paper towels.

Now I have a roll of paper towels sitting in my bathroom.

the phone

My leaders asked me on Christmas if I wanted to “ring my folks.”

I said, “I don’t know how.”

“Maybe they can ring you,” they suggested.

“They don’t know how either!” I say. The phone continues to be a great mystery and challenge.

The store sold me international calling cards that didn’t work. Upon googling this brand and doing a little research, I found that there is a lawsuit against this calling card. So the “line” has been disconnected. Why then do the stores still sell the cards?

Why? Because TIA. This Is Africa.

(I try not to say or think that while rolling my eyes and exhaling hot air. I know I’m supposed to try to gain an understanding for all that I don’t understand or want to dismiss as “stupid” or “ridiculous.” But most of the time, I’m no saint.)

must not love dogs

“Where do you live?”
“Westlands.”
“Oh, that’s far.”
“Yes, it is.”
“Who with?”
“Well…” I hesitate. How do you explain house and dog “sitting” to a Kenyan? “Well, my friend is in the US visiting family, so I’m taking care of her house and her – uh – dog.”
“Her dog? Guy!”
We laugh.
“I know,” I say.
“What does he eat?”
“These little pebbles of food. It’s food made for dogs.” I feel stupid. Kids are starving here.
“Food for dogs?”
“Yes.”

When I see myself, this aspect of my culture,
through their eyes,
it looks absurd.

Could it be a farse?
A comedy of errors?
Can dogs really be a million dollar business
in America?

playing chicken

If my driver would stop playing “chicken” with bicyclists on the morning commute, then I could stop holding my breath and expanding my lung capacity. Bicyclists have no clue that he’s coming that close to their rears before he swerves out to avoid hitting them. I move my body to the left or right, as if I’m playing the Nintendo Wii, hoping I’ll move the car and save a life.

I mean, I just don’t get it. Even if there’s a ton of room to go around the pedestrian or cyclist, the drivers don’t. I am afraid we will one day maim or kill someone on the way to work, forcing me to deploy my hostile environments and first aid training.

pulling out my hair

I know I shouldn’t be pulling out my hair as I’ll need it for my bridesmaid’s dress this spring, but I want to. It relieves stress.

Friends and family sent me e-cards for Christmas and it takes me 5 days to open them.

Net’s down.
Net dropped me.
Re-load page.
Refresh. Refresh. Refresh.
Argh!
Is this e-card worth it?
Give up.
Do something else…
Try again.
Dropped gain.
Refresh again.
Re-load again.

You get the point.
Five days of perseverance.

The e-cards were worth it, though, keeping me in touch with another world.

Who will cry for these babies?

Ryan died last week. He was only 150 days old. He came to us extremely malnourished. His little head disproportionate to his body as his brain grew but his body refused to keep up. His mother left him in the marketplace. Ryan died during the night, our nurses with him. Since the time I arrived here, I’ve witnessed him receiving such special care – the nurses, care workers, and volunteers so gentle with him.

But I find that “the world not as it should be” when a baby this small passes away without the grief of a mother or a father to fall on him.

Mary Beckenham, one of New Life’s founder-directors, opened our office door with tears in her eyes and told us the news of his death, saying, “He’s happy though. He’s up there with all our other ones.” All of the other abandoned infants who lived but a few days, or weeks, or months, within our care.

And so we grieve, but not as those without hope, for we know that a new day is coming.

“Look, I will create new heavens and a new earth.
The former things will not be remembered,
nor will they come to mind.

Never again will there be in it
an infant who lives but a few days…”

- God (in Isaiah 65:17 & 20)

January 15, 2009


these woods

I live in the middle of these woods, these glorious trees surrounding my house, hugging up against it, hiding me away. I wish I knew their names – these trees – because maybe then I could convey their beauty. But I doubt it. I think they’ve seen much. And have stories to tell. Wires run through and beneath their branches, forming an electric wall around this compound. Every hour or so, one of our three Kenyan guards walk through our compound and press the button which keeps our wall “electrified.” I am insulated from Nairobi – Nairobbery – right now.

dogs barking
in the pit of my
stomach a slum
groans nearby but i can
skirt around it
take the right roads
and i’ll never know it’s
there a million-crammed
full. right now i’m running
with the rich
with the white
with those in semi-flight
from Reality – the real
Nairobi doesn’t exist here
doesn’t co-mingle with
those with whom i mingle.

the burning

Is the world on fire? I wonder most mornings at eye-lid opening. The burning of things, constant here. Smoke wafting into the air and into my eyes. I have the red eyes of an old African woman, a mzee (mu-zay), bent over metal pots of pilau.

Sometimes, the burning smells like feces.

Other times, the burning smells like the campfires of my childhood or bonfires with friends.

work, work, work

What do I do with my days? I work with an all-Kenyan team in the Public Relations office of New Life Home Trust (www.newlifehometrust.org ) to advocate for the orphans and vulnerable children in our care. We write grants, plan publications, get the “donor dollars,” etc. I’ll be finishing up with NLHT until mid-February and then transition full-time with Pioneers into regions beyond Kenya.

my pet monkey

We have monkeys swinging all over the place. I counted a family of ten the first week I was here. A friend of mine e-mailed me about my “pet monkey.” Hardly! She told me to throw that guy a banana once in a while. She has compassion because she doesn’t know that the monkeys around here are little bullies. For example, my neighbor can’t even sit in her backyard because the monkeys rule the roost. So she’s moved her table and chairs out front.

And who knew that cute gray monkeys could make such hellacious noises? I kept looking in the trees to identify the culprit – thinking it an ugly vulture or carion bird – when out swung a fuzzy little monkey talking up a storm, airing his complaints to the entire neocolonialist community and their dogs.

When I get home from work, I check the two bundles of bananas hanging on the two trees in my backyard – checking for signs of yellow. I’ve got to pull them before the monkeys do. They’re my bananas! Game on, monkeys!

the banana count

The Kenyan women peer into the pot of food I am heating on the stove at lunch – I worry, What are they thinking? Am I eating weird things?

“Ah, you can cook! Wow. Surely, she’s a good cook,” they say to each other.
“Yes, it surprises even me,” I say.
“How did you eat in the States?” they ask.

I honestly have to think for a second and then remember a nickname a roommate gave me – Leftover Queen. I would go out to lunch and dinner constantly with friends and with the enormous portions served at most restaurants, return home with one or two more meals to put in the fridge. So I hardly cooked.

Here, I cook a lot. And mostly from scratch – soups, stews, pasta sauces. I am amazed that it’s actually edible and enjoyable to do. I can’t believe I am saying this, but I like cooking.

So the Kenyans told me this week – “Take a banana.”
“No thank you,” I say gently. “I don’t want to take your food.”
“But we counted you for a banana,” they press me.

Then I got it. They counted me for a banana! Counted as one of them. So they’ve been feeding me bananas and sweet, Kenyan chai along with much laughter mid-morning, every day. This feels good, being taken in.

Michael Jackson mask

Confession. You know those white “germ masks” that Michael Jackson used to use to cover his mouth when out in public? Well, sometimes I want to be a freak and wear a mask around this polluted city. I feel as if I could chew the air at times. In fact, it’s so thick in places, you can’t help but consume it until you feel nauseous, approaching vomit point. Does Nairobi cancel out California’s Clean Air Act?

unpacking my mind

Unpacking your mind. That’s what psychologists and culture-entry experts term the processing of your culture shock, the thoughts and feelings that accompany your move into a foreign culture. It describes the entry phase perfectly – when you’ve unpacked your bags, but not your mind. Your mind is full. Brim full. But you don’t know what to unpack first – where to start? So you keep sitting on your suitcase, keeping it all stuffed in there. Contained.

My life is finally “arranged” into semi-coherency here in Africa. Trying to figure out how to get from A to B, how to get money, how to not get mugged, how to trust perfect strangers who look and speak differently than I, how to use the phone, how to say please in Swahili, how to count money.

I’m a toddler again.

It’s all so complicated and different. I don’t know much of anything anymore.

One thing I really like – I can grocery shop while stuck in traffic. Bananas, mangos, passion fruit, newspapers, passed through my window. I hate grocery shopping, so this provides a modicum of efficiency for me – I may be wasting time in a traffic jam, but at least I’m gaining it back by getting my grocery shopping done.

What a time-oriented American, huh?

Thanks for letting me unpack my mind ...